Відео

Ember is not longer experimental...

BTF-Lighting strips have never come off on any of my uses and I have even removed and reused them with no issues. They make good led strips if you don't want to mess with additional tape. I have been making my own controllers. Super cheap and easy if you can solder, especially if you need more than a couple. Those controllers add up quickly.

What config would you recommand in 12meter setup?

Hello, excellent video, how would you do if a door sensor detects the opening, from there it triggers a delay of 30 seconds for example and if they don't close it then it triggers a siren... now the conditional, if before those 30 seconds was closed that canceled the first trigger of firing the siren, an example of forgetting an open door in that way would be very useful for several. Greetings and keep it up! You have a new subscriber

can i ask what dog toilet button is for

Hey, great video! My Dad and I are currently working on a really tiny board which uses an ESP32s3 and you can also power with just USB-C for lower length strips, or run the strip off a beefier power supply for longer ones. It runs his own software rather than WLED (although you could flash if you can get it working on an s3 chip) and it connects to Home Assistant pretty easily with auto discovery over MQTT. I’ll hopefully be doing a video of my own on it when we get the new batch of boards through 😊

I think its none of HomeAssistants business if you are love making so i would go with mmWave 😂

Great video. Why is this not available standard HA integration and you need to use HACS?

Trying to find an answer to a question on here what happens when you put the bed on top of the mat how does it know that it’s just the bed and not somebody occupying the bed? Is there a way to set a home position and then the occupy

Hey Alan, thanks for the shout out! Definitely saw a bump in views after that 😀 Great overview of these two controllers! I feel like you got into a lot more detail that I was able to!

How

for those who are hosting in docker, I had to add Extra Parameters = --device=/dev/ttyACM1 within zigbee2mqtt and in the configuration.yml file add adapter: ember (or ??) serial: port: /dev/ttyACM1 adapter: ember

You have a beautiful and nice dog, as well as a quite interesting idea. I just don't think the automated feeder would survive my golden retriever for more than a few days 😂

I too am a huge fan of the dig2go wled controllers!!! I'm so excited that I should be receiving another one this week to set up another corner with cool accent lighting. I've tried a few other brands/types of WLED controllers as well, but this one is by far the best one for small installations I've found

time to do it again - without

I find most adhesives on LED Strips are pretty bad, except for one brand I use a lot. BTF. BTF lighting use the 3M adhesive, which is rock solid and has lasted for years on my Plasma TV, which does get quite warm.

Portainer loads via HTTPS on port 9443. Frigate loads on HTTP port 5000. However, login to Portainer as root with password set during script fails. I can log into Proxmox LXC Console using those credentials. Also My Frigate page loads with a white background and spinning wheel. Cameras never load. I tried adding all 4 at once. I'll try just one at a time. I did verify rstp stream is correct with VLC. Anyone else have issues logging into Portainer?

Afaik the SMLight unfortunately has no fuse. So I would not recommend to use it in a productive environment. For experimental things on the bench its okay.

Have you spotted the new IKEA ZigBee accessories?

Man you made me a goosebumps with Winamp intro 😉

I have found clear silicone caulk is great for putting up LED strips (and other stuff!) Get a tube and use it to stick up your strips using it like glue. You often don't need to run an entire bead of the caulk along the strip, but just put a few blobs along the strip at even intervals. You might have to hold the strip in place for a bit until the caulk bonds, but painter's tape works great for holding it in place until it is set. It stays fine through higher heat produced by monitors and such. But anytime you need to peel the strips off, you can, and the caulk can be peeled off most surfaces cleanly without leaving anything behind. I've used it to hold LED strips under kitchen cabinets (even the ones above the stove which get the cooking heat) and they have never fallen off. But I have removed them easily when I wanted to replace them with a different kind of LED strip and the caulk peels cleanly off the old strips and even the wood under the cabinets. I even use silicone caulk to stick little figurines on top of my monitor and they stay perfectly, but peel off cleanly with no damage to the monitor casing.

I've been in a search for a long time for wled controllers for analogic strip (more specifically to CCT) that supports GPIO for a dumb switch (those normal switches in our walls). Shelly rbgw is arriving and I will give it a try. It would be nice to see more options for that use case. Not everyone wants or needs addressable led :/

Thanks for the great video. Would you mind sharing what monitors and stand do you use?

I always prefer sticking things on in a non-permanent, non-damaging way, so I often resort to Gekko Tape (or nano tape). While I don't think it is very suitable for LED strips (but worth a try), it definitely can be used for the controller or other small devices. I have used gekko tape to attach Hue motion sensors to my ceiling for example. It may damage wall paint so first check. And use small pieces of gekko tape if you want to be able to remove it later without too much effort/damage. I mainly use the 2mm thick version. Give it a try.

3:49 would be easy way to replace my current esp's that measure temps in the rooms, which automate the hvac and heating

About time someone came clean about the rubbish adhesive on nearly all LED strip - I've been known ro resort to staples when the adhesive finally fails on pretty much nany surface. I'm about to look up the adhesive you mentioned - hoping Amazon as it as I'm in the deep end of Southern Spain. You didn't say what you did with the original adhesive on the strip. Left it on? I've ordered some 9mm to try...

Thanks for the video!

Thanks for the consistent quality content :)

I love it that you credit the MakeItWork channel. Way too few presenters give credit to any of their sources. I definitely agree with Dig2Go as a terrific controller. I have moved a lot of LED lighting away from 5V though, and it does not handle other voltages. All my Xmas and outdoor lights are on 12V with DigQuad. Indoors I have started using analog extra warm white lights. Quinled has some controllers coming soon and in the meantime I find Shelly RGBW2 does a great job for these. For indoor lights where I need color and long runs, I have standardized on 24V with a preference for FCOB with or without a white channel. These pair perfectly with the DigQuads.

winamp, not heard that intro for an age

iirc, the dig2go also shuts off the power to the SK6812's when not in use, otherwise they draw more power when idle. This feature is available on all of the dig line of WLED controllers. Not sure about the other one listed in the video or not. Can you confirm ?

Another great video!

"Error response from daemon: Conflict. The container name "/homeassistant" is already in use by container..." wtf

Great video. Want to set up home automation, however would like to know how losing the internet connection affects the functionality when at home. I understand when away you have no interface, but when at home your local network is still up and I would hope everything would still work along with notification on your phone via your wifi router.

I tried multiple time, no frigate screen in the end...

How to keep it as a signee hub and connect R5 devices?

Bedankt

Great video! I've ordered one and migrated my zigbee devices 👍

nope, Ive been at this for almost 4 months, on and off and just cannot get it to work. I have a new Unifi g4 Doorbell, tbh, it can do a lot (animal, person, vechicle detections / zone setup - all saving to my 4tb hdd on my UDM SE - a breeze to setup. Maybe I'll give Frigate a stab again when I get a couple of g5 Bullets.

@HomeAutomationGuy Thanks for the great video 😀 I ended up to this video when searching for the Airgradient One sensor and using it in Home Assistant. Any chance you might buy one, test it and make a tutorial on how to integrate with Home Assistant? There are some written tutorials online I believe, but as I am a more visually oriented guy (and a bit of noob with Home Assistant / knowing the basics for lights, sensors and stuff...) a video tutorial would be really welcome 😄 Thanks again and KUTGW! 💪

Thank you! Very helpful

Bought a DL360 gen9 rack server with 64GB RAM, dual CPU for £105 off eBay!!! Amazing prices. Popped a few drives in, set up raid 5. Happy days!! A million miles from my pi 3 with SD card! LOL

Whilst your cabling in the laundary room to the racks could've done with more length and better support, it's great to see someone still using cables when wifi is ONLY a tool and Cat6e is perfect for resenditial as the installation requirements of Cat7e + often prove impossible without suspended floors / ceilings. What you need is a controllable power switch or UPS so you can stagger the reboot to the order you want so they 'handshake' / pair back up in the right order although i would have gone Nest for heating / water and smoke detectors and Lutron Homeworks QS for lighting but then you would have had to rewire most of the lights though as to light automation you can get some really useful RF 240v in line switching. ....but on lights you can't beat Lutrom, haven't had a failed bulb in six years and i save so much energy with so much flexibility.

The guys mentioned @24:26 that they use the Moes mm radar sensor. From what I can tell, they are not supported in HA. Or, do they work/integrate?

Clear and helpful. I read lots of ways to edit files from VSCode in HA container, but yours is the one that works! I did have a problem with permissions, though, which you do not address. Apparently the HA installation procedure set up the whole directory structure as owned by root, whereas VSCode is logged in as MYUSERNAME. Any attempt to create or save a file gives a permissions error. It is therefore necessary to change the ownership of the whole HA structure to MYUSERNAME. In CLI, log in as root, navigate to /opt/homeassistant and use # chown -R USER NAME config After that VSCode can write and edit HA files.

Hi! Any chance for a "Home Automation Controllers/System" video. I use unif, with phillips hue (+bridge) and I'm just about to extend to aqara for some Sensors- yes I want to use home assistant but just realised I need the aqara m2/3 HUB aswell. Silly oversight but I still think a video on all the necessary controllers for a complete smart Home would make for good content (and important content) and how to maximise potential without having 9 different controllers and/or hubs for such a complete smart home project. Thanks from Aust. for the videos

Very nice to have found a fairly concise and technical channel. The biggest risk in building HA as an integral part of a home is robustness. Particularly pairing to the devices themselves. I would love to hear about strategies for making a HA setup as resilient as possible. E.g. are there ways to back up the zigbee device network itself? Usin wifi, you could assign IP's to mac adresses statically. Are there anything similar for zigbee and HA? Having multiple containers that need to talk to each other, you would want that configuration backed up too, so e.g. after an update that brakes something, you could rollback everything to last known working state. Do you have solution for that?

Do you need a running instance of Frigate for this to connect to, or does this method create everything?

Thanks for this video, I'm currently planning a smarthome network and have no experience with zigbee. This really helped explain all about it and now I feel confident it's a protocol I can adopt! Also, I know it's an old video, but there's a lot of random clicking sounds throughout, maybe that's been addressed in your newer content, but I didn't see anyone commenting.